Log by Joe Francis
Day 2 was a tough climb but the glimpse of Everest on the way added to the excitement. Started from Phakding at 7.15 and climbed to Namche at 3430 m in 6.5 hours – on way registered at TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) check post (the trekking company had got my TIMS Card from Kathmandu – which is needed at this registration point). So hungry, by the time I reached Namche, that I must have had the highest quantity of rice and dal in my recent memory. Namche is relatively a big place (the biggest in the whole trekking route to the Everest Base Camp). Afternoon was free. Clearly the best place of stay and food. The place was run by elderly local couple – they spend time in the US during offseason (winter) with their daughter who is a medical doctor. During season they run the place and also have a kind of family reunion at this place with their daughter, son and grand children who come down from Kathmandu.
Day 3 was also in Namche for acclimatization since it was a 800 m climb the previous day. On this day, after breakfast, I trekked 400 m up to Everest View Hotel run by the Japanese and came back to the same place for lunch. Nice 4.5 hours workout, got the body exposed to 3800 m and came back to sleep at 3400 m.
Day 4 was a medium climb to Tengboche at 3860m in 4.5 hours. Reached for lunch and was free in the afternoon. Visited the Monestry next door in the afternoon.
Day 5 was a medium climb to Dingboche at 4260m in 4.5 hours. Reached for lunch and by design the afternoon was meant to be free and additional day for acclimatization here since most people tend to develop AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) around this height. I decided to complete the 300 m plus climb to Nagarjuna and back the same afternoon since I was feeling good and did not want to idle in the room. Completed this in 4.5 hours. Total trek of 9 hours was tough but was very doable.
Day 6 was medium climb to Lobuche at 4910m – this 5.5 hours trek was ok especially after a tough previous day. During this trek I saw the first case of someone with oxygen support going down to safety (due to severe AMS symptoms)
Day 7 was medium climb to Gorak Shep at 5180m in 3.5 hours trek. By design the afternoon was free but I went ahead to Everest Base Camp at 5380m and came back to Gorak Shep in 4 hours. I was feeling good and still had time to go to Kala Pattar for sunset (by design it is always early morning 3 am trek to see sunrise). Did that climb to Kala Pattar at 5555m and came back for the night stay at Gorak Shep in4 hours. It was not a spectacular sunset due to not so clear weather, but enough to get good pictures of Everest before sunset. This was indeed the toughest day as I packed in 2.5 days of trek in 1 day.
Day 8 was toughest climb down from Gorak Shep to Namche (climb up was done in 5 days) in 12 hours – 4 hours it was snowing and last 2 hours it was dark (6.30 pm to 8.30 pm). Due the fresh snow that accumulated on both sides of the trekking path we could see the path clearly at night and did not have to use torch for the most part. My knees withstood the climb down! This was a 1.5 day trek packed into 1 day. By design, the day you do the 3 am trek to Kala Pattar from Gorak Shep you come down to a place called Periche and stay the night there and the next day come down to Namche.
Day 9 Namche to Lukla in 6.5 hours but looked endless as I wanted to come back home! Irony was that I was stranded at Lukla for 2 days due to bad weather that prevented any flights landing. I managed to get out on a chopper coming to Kathmandu after the 2 days wait – the chopper ride offered great views but did feel it was long (50 mins) and endless range of mountains to cross.
Since I had an exclusive guide and porter I carried only my camera apart from myself (even water bottle was carried by the porter) and that made a huge difference - that is why I was able to do it in 9 days in spite of the fact that I could get adjusted to high altitude.